Brilliant sunshine blessed every single day of the Popes return to his homeland. It was an immensely joyful time for the country and I am glad that I was able to be present for some of it. I arrived in Altoetting very early in the morning, just after dawn, on the morning of 11th September. As I was driving someone who was involved in the Mass we had a permit to park in the courtyard of a convent in the centre. Hundreds of police were directing streams of people and diverting traffic. The narrow streets of the little town were already choked with a sea of humanity. Trying to inch my way through them was some of the most stressful driving I have ever done. Once parked, my companion set off into the chilly morning and I settled down in the convent to watch events on TV. The place was deserted apart from the unfortunate nun who was stuck with the task of being porter for the morning.
From the comfort of the convent common room I saw the Popes helicopter arrive and watched his progress in the Pope-mobile into town. Roars of applause came from the street a block away as he approached the Kapellplatz. I heard his arrival but I did not see it, apart from on the TV. When the Mass ended, and the Pope began his walk up to the nearby convent where he was to have lunch, I went down to the street. There was a huge crush and I soon retreated.

Somewhere in this melee is the Pope working out exactly where is rather like trying to spot the ball. I did see Monsignor Georg Ratzinger being escorted to lunch, leaning on the arm of a portly cleric and holding a white stick.

At least for a couple of hours the two brothers were going to have a little peace.
These servers were using the umbrellas as sunshades.

Later in the day I did see the Pope going to St Annes Basilica for Vespers. He stopped, as he did throughout the trip, to greet as many people as he possibly could. I took these photographs as he was almost directly in front of me.


He touched hands with everyone in our section and he looked jubilant, eventually raising both his arms in the air in a regretful farewell.
While the Pope went on with his programme in Altoetting it was time for us to depart for Regensburg so we could reach the city before the police closed down access. The roads were not busy. One got the impression that people were either at a papal event or had fled the country. In Regensburg, there were police everywhere. It resembled a garrison town, but everything was very efficiently organised.
The Pope was due to drive into town quite late in the evening on his way to the St Wolfgang seminary. Friends in Regensburg had booked a table in a restaurant which was on the Papal route, a few metres from the entrance to the Bismarck square. So, when the pope went by, I was standing in front of the restaurant, behind a metal barrier in the narrow street, together with all the other diners and the staff, to see him go by.

There was no pushing or shoving or hysterical screaming. Everyone was very polite and considerate but the Pope still got a tremendous welcome.
The next day was the big Mass in Islinger field. I spent the morning enjoying Regensburg, which was almost completely devoid of traffic apart form the jolly green and white police bikes and police cars all of them, naturally, wonderful speedy BMWs. The Cathedral looked splendid and these pots of exotic and fragrant Daturas were on many street corners.

In the afternoon I watched the Pope depart for the University to deliver his now famous speech before joining some friends near the Cathedral for the procession which preceded the Ecumenical service.


It is very difficult to photograph someone in a moving pope-mobile this is the best I could do.

While awaiting the arrival of the Pope I was standing near the photographers and journalists who were covering the visit. They came from all over Europe and were equipped with laptops, heavy cameras (they had at least two hanging from their shoulders) enormous lenses in more bags and some even had small step ladders dangling from their backs. They looked as if they needed St Corbinians bear to help carry the enormous burden. They set everything up at the roadside sitting on their step ladders while they waited.

Some were filing news stories and sending them off using Blue Tooth. Meanwhile, up among the gargoyles in the cathedral, security men lurked.

When the Pope arrived and the procession began the photographers were instantly in action, precariously balancing on steps or scaffolding while manhandling cameras with foot long lenses. The crowd pressed around them and one guy was pushed off his ladder by a frustrated bystander who was having his view blocked. That was the only sign of bad temper I saw during the entire visit. All of the photographers were men they needed the muscle power.

The Pope walked by, near the end of the procession, wearing a golden cope and mitre.

He stopped periodically and turned to face the crowd, raising his hand to wave or in blessing.


He looked happy, but he must have been very tired after such a long and event packed day.
While he was inside the Cathedral the photographers and journalists worked together to edit the pictures and to write captions and stories.

Within twenty minutes or so the first drafts had been sent off to editors all over the world. If you ever wondered how the stories and pictures got through so quickly, this is how curb-side journalism. It was fascinating to watch them work, in very difficult conditions. Here, in Regensburg, the weather was wonderful and the crowd was friendly. They were all having a good time and enjoying the assignment. Talking with some of them, I heard that this kind of instant journalism can be extremely hazardous.

Imagine doing this in one of the worlds trouble spots. It certainly wouldnt be a job I would covet. The arc lights shone on the Cathedral most of the evening. It looked sensational.
Wednesday 13th September was billed as the private day although the first event of the day was a public one the inauguration of the organ at the Alte Kapelle. This was the only official event I attended. We were all issued with red identity badges ahead of the event and told that we were not to bring cameras or cell phones. (The photographs which follow are all by Arturo Mari) Most people arrived before nine, when the old corn-market was mostly deserted. The Pope was not due to arrive until 11 oclock but it was a pleasure to wait in that exuberant Rococo gem of a church. On entering the building the first thing one noticed was the overwhelming scent of lilies. There were tall, slim vases filled with white lilies on all of the side altars along the nave and banks of them around the altar. The church looked absolutely stunning, the sunlight streaming in from the bright morning bouncing off the gilded plaster. We were all dressed in our best bib and tucker. Gloria Thurn und Taxis and her party, which included Alessandra Borghese, were swathed in acres of black lace. One or two men wore uniforms decorated with gold braid. The rest of us were less elaborately turned out.
The sound of applause from outside and the ringing of the bells signalled the arrival of the Pope. It seemed to take ages for him to appear and it was beacuse he went round the square greeting as many people as he could. The atmosphere was electric as we sensed that he was behind us in the vestibule under the organ.

Arturo Mari
Then the trumpets rang out and he began his slow walk up the aisle, wearing his red silk mozzetta and the elaborate crimson and gold embroidered stole while the church filled with applause. His brother walked just ahead of him, again leaning on another clergyman and holding his white stick. The Pope stopped frequently to greet people on all sides. Many of them were old friends from his many years in Regensburg. His face was a picture of delight as he recognised one elderly gentleman in front of me. He took both his hands and looked as if he would explode with joy. When he moved away the man brushed a tear from his eye. He was not the only tearful person present that morning. There was a very emotional atmosphere in the beautiful Alte Kapelle
The service was quite short and it seemed to be over in moments. The Pope sat in the chancel on an elaborate gold and white chair covered in crimson velvet. He was flanked by the clergy and Georg Ganswein sat to his right. His brother sat on the end seat in the elaborately carved choir stalls, also to the Popes right side. The Dean greeted him and thanked him for being present. He received a gift of a golden chalice and paten. The music was wonderful the choir and a small orchestra were in side chapel on the left side and included a joyous Te Deum. The Pope gave a short address in which said the organ was an instrument which could remind us of the magnificence of God.

Arturo Mari
We all stood while he blessed the organ and Georg Ganswein held the book while he read he words of blessing. Then he sprinkled holy water. When the great organ began to play Bachs Toccata and Fugue it was absolutely thrilling. Shivers literally ran up my spine. The whole building was enveloped in the most majestic sound. The organ played as the Pope began his return walk down the nave, stopping again to greet people he had missed on the way in. He stopped to greet the orchestra and to touch the sick. All too soon he was gone and we heard the muffled sound of applause again when he eventually appeared outside. After a while we stumbled out into the bright sunshine feeling rather dazed, but incredibly elated and sporting our red badges with pride. The Pope went for lunch with his brother while many of the congregation went for lunch at the Bischopshof. In the afternoon he returned home to Pentling. I shall write about that at another time.
An immense amount of security was in place for the trip. Thousands of police were drafted in from all over Germany, but the security was never heavy handed. It was sometimes amusing to hear people ask the police directions for one place or another and to hear them reply that they had no idea because they were from Heidelberg, or Bamberg or other points north. The police were good natured young guys who often seemed rather bored with the endless standing around with no action. One told me that he would rather police a rowdy football crowd any day than stand in a quiet street in Regensburg with well behaved pilgrims. He said it with a smile though. I think the police were having a reasonably good time too. Some of them also liked to take pictures.

The next day, on the autobahn between Regensburg and Munich, I noticed that there were police standing by the roadside verges every three hundred yards or so, for almost the whole way. The Pope was due to go to Freising that morning, but by helicopter and not by road. Why the police were waiting there is still a mystery. I hope someone remembered to pick them all up. I did not go to Freising. It was time for me to head down to Rome. The weather broke after the Popes departure and in Rome the rain was falling when he arrived. Friends told me that they were in tears watching the Popes departure on the TV.

DPA
It was hard to let him go. I hope he can return to his homeland again, and soon.













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