Michael Stravato for The New York TimesThe storage house for trucked-in dirt.
Chimayo Journal By ERIK ECKHOLM
Published: 20 February 2008 in
...tens of thousands of pilgrims walk eight miles or more to the shrine on Good Friday, some bearing heavy crosses and others approaching on their knees. Now the disparagement of the dirt was jarring, coming from Father Roca, who has devoted much of his life to creating the present-day shrine and is its revered eminence. At 89, he wears a beret that reveals his Barcelona origins.
Some 50 years ago, he took over the abandoned, nearly ruined site of the church, which was first constructed in 1816. He oversaw the rebuilding of the sanctuary holy hole included into the spotless place it is today, with bright paintings and statues inside and giant cottonwoods out back that he planted as saplings. It has become a stop for tour buses taking the scenic route to Taos as well as for local residents in search of solace or cures, and was declared a national landmark in 1970.
Scores of people visit every day the rest of the year, many hoping to cure diseases or disabilities with prayer, holy water and, most famously, the healing dirt, which visitors collect from a hole in the floor inside the church.
Visitors bring their own baggies or containers or can buy little plastic containers marked blessed dirt at the churchs gift shop.
Few leave without some of the reddish soil, scooped from the 18-inch-wide posito, or well, that is continually replenished by a caretaker, Father Roca is quick to explain, despite rumors over the years that the pit was refilled by divine intervention.
He pointed to the small building nearby where trucked-in dirt is stored. I even have to buy clean dirt! he complained.
Some people take dirt away for divine luck, while those with ailments may eat it, brew it in tea or rub it on the afflicted body area....hoping to benefit from it's supposed healing powers.
Michael Stravato for The New York TimesThe Rev. Casimiro Roca, above, says miracles at his New Mexico church come from God. At the spot where the crucifix was found is the 18-inch-wide "posito," or well. Tour buses bring the faithful, who believe the dirt has healing powers. The dirt in the well is continually replenished by a caretaker, despite rumors over the years that the pit was refilled by divine intervention.
Photo: Michael Stravato for The New York Times
Legend has it that on a dark Good Friday in 1810, men from the secretive Penitente Brotherhood were engaged in rites on a hill above Chimayo, N.M. One of them, Don Bernardo Abeyta, saw a strange light shining upward from the valley.
Photo: Michael Stravato for The New York Times
When the men went down to investigate, the light disappeared, but at its source they discovered a half-buried wooden crucifix. A church was built on the site.
Photo: Michael Stravato for The New York Times
Fifty years ago, Father Casimiro Roca took over the abandoned, nearly ruined site of the church, which was first constructed in 1816. He oversaw the rebuilding of the sanctuary, with bright paintings and statues inside.
Photo: Michael Stravato for The New York Times
Discarded crutches line a wall inside the Santuario de Chimayo.
Photo: Michael Stravato for The New York Times
Father Roca believes in miracles, but, he said: "They are the work of the Good Lord. I always tell people that I have no faith in the dirt, I have faith in the Lord. But people can believe what they want."
Photo: Michael Stravato for The New York Times
